Powered by mwForum 2. Not logged in American Welding Society Forum. I am having a difficult time starting my dad's old lincoln. The machine hasn't been firedup in years.
All it does is click. Removed the plugs and squirted liquidwrench in the the four cylinders, nothing. Do I need a bigger battery and connect directly to the cables, or can I still jump with the booster?
By aevald Date GMANIAC, in a case such as the one you are describing you may want to do a few things before you try starting this machine.
You are on the right track by first removing the spark plugs and squirting in the liquid wrench. You may want to see if you can turn the motor over by hand next with the spark plugs removed, by doing this you may well break loose any stuck rings or similar type things.
Double check to see that you have coolant in the cooling system, pull the dip stick to verify the oil level and also lack of water in the oil or anything else strange. Check the airfilter or oil bath air filter system depending on the one that is used in this case, make sure that nothing has made a home here that shouldn't be there.
As far as the battery goes, remove the old one and install a like sized new one or one that you know is good, if you try to jump start the motor with the old one still installed it will not work, the old battery is robbing any of the charge that you are trying to get to the starter.
Take a good look at the plugs and once you get a battery in the machine and get it to turn over install one of the plugs onto one of the wires and insure that you have spark, possibly even repeat this process with the other plug wires. If you don't have spark you will likely have to start checking things such as the spark plug cap for corrosion on the contact points or the rotor, you may also have to change the points and condenser.
If it has a magneto there are some like components that can be inspected but it will not have an ignition coil. Try some of the things that I have mentioned here and see if you can get it to work. Regards, aevald. By DaveBoyer Date In addition to Aevald's suggestions, I would allso drain out any old gas that might be left in it and put in fresh gas. If You are in a cold climate get the machine into a heated garage if You can.
If You try starting fluid use it sparingly.This is a forum where announcements are made about the site directly from ownership about changes to the site, new sponsors, etc Women in Welding Blog Post. If you have questions about this site or need help posting, registering or using any of the features of the site, post here!
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This is a PAID inclusion area. Links, book and other resources - with a catch: You can't recommend your own stuff. You can only recommend other people's stuff that you've used or stumbled across. Oh yeah: Keep it on topic or we'll torch it. Education - College vsIf you want to understand your Lincoln SA welding machine, you need a basic understanding of the DC generator. Your SA is really two DC generators that work in tandem. The first generator is the exciter the nose that sticks out the front of the machine.
This exciter is actually a 2 kW kilowatt DC generator which provides a DC current that is adjusted to control the welder output. The exciter also provides an aux. The second generator is the welding generator.
This generator produces a regulated constant current output that produces the wonderful arc that welders love. Both generators operate on the same principals; one is just much larger! In this article, we are only going to discuss the exciter generator and exciter control circuit. This circuit is very simple to understand, troubleshoot, and repair. The graphic above is of a standard Lincoln SA exciter, with the end cap removed. Facing the machine from the front, note the location and name of each item:.
The exciter coils and the pole pieces form electromagnets when DC current flows through the exciter coils. The magnetic fields produced by the exciter coils are broken by the windings on the exciter armature, producing approximately volts DC at full RPM. The faster the engine turns, the more voltage the exciter produces. At welding speed RPMthe exciter voltage should be approximately volts DC: positive on the right brush holder, negative on the left brush holder.
The system is a series-wound compound generator, with an additional shunt coil across the exciter armature. By studying the wiring diagram below, you can see that there are two halves of the exciter circuit, designated by the red line with arrows on each end. This red line is not part of the circuit, just a visual aid.
The "exciter generator" produces volts DC that is fed to the auxiliary power outlet and to the main exciter shunt coils. This DC current is varied by the fine-current control rheostat think of it as a valvethen fed into the main exciter shunt coils. This controls the strength of the magnetic field, which controls the amount of welding current that is available.
If there is a fault in either circuit, the machine will not weld. This can be verified by checking the auxiliary with a meter, light, or a grinder. If you can "grind," but not weld, check the main exciter shunt coils.
The exciter shunt coils in the SA are simple to diagnose and replace. Get more information on Weldmart-Onlinereplacement exciter coilswhich come with a ten-year warranty.Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name? SA Another story asking for help. Posts Latest Activity. Page of 4. Filtered by:. Previous 1 2 3 4 template Next. Bob Miller. SA Another story asking for helpPM. I never cared about anything that had Lincoln on the side until after reading this forum.
Then after reading about SA I became interested in them. My friend has one in the barn, I asked if he wanted to sell it. That's as far as we are so far. I did stop and look at it close just now, the first time I've seen it in 20 years.
I will try to describe so that this forum can help me put a fair price on it. The serial puts it mid Jan. The tongue is also bolted to the frame, with a clamping arrangement Its way neater than I can describe.
The tires and wheels are the same on both sides, with Lincoln hub caps. The tin work is straight. The grill looks to be aluminum and is smashed in one corner.
The radiator is fine. The barrel is round.
I could not see if the wiring was Al or Cu. The leads are rotten and are about ft at the most. Someone put home made fenders on it that interfere with the opening of the side doors. You have push the fender down to open the doors. My take on this welder is that my friend bought this welder new and used it very little. It seems to be all original and dare I say cherry. The battery 12V is dead, but he says it runs. Looks like the water pump was replaced. Can I pressure wash it all over or should I rinse the tin with a hose and leave under the hood dry?
So what do you guys think, any and all help will be much appreciated. Thank you for your help, Bob Miller PS. If you have any questions please ask. Its down the street from me. Tags: None.Powered by mwForum 2. Not logged in American Welding Society Forum.
By chris Date I just got back home from picking up my new used Lincoln sa all copper wound welder. It welds and runs pretty good I just think all it needs is a little more tlc and it will be running even better.
I just checked the serial number and the machine is a that is if the face plate hasn't been taken off another machine like some of you have said on here before or I read it somewhere else but I think it probally is a First thing I gotta do is get a kill switch and then change radiator hoses and flush the system and change the oil plugs and wires and I guess take it from there slowly bringing her back to life.
All in all I feel I got a hell of a deal for as old as this thing looks. I've seen other newer then mine and look far worse. I'm really glad I took some of yalls advice and I rented a half ton to go get it instead of my wrangler man this baby is a beast next project is getting it outta the truck and onto some blocks. I'm thinking I'm gonna make it's own little trailer for it because my 5x8 is to small for it it will just flatten the tires out. By shorthood Date By chris Date Edited Thanks dude I maybe asking some questions about it like what kinda oil to use in it?
I was gonna use maybe Castrol oil and was told to use a 10w is this correct and how many quarts does it hold? I looked the year up and it says it is a the starter hangs kinda below where the bolts hold the oil pan up so I don't know if it is a F or a F motor can yall tell me?
I know I read the difference on here just a few days or weeks ago but I can't remember. I checked the oil lastnight and it wasn't really to dirty just it spelled like old gas so I'm sure the guy had flushed the tank before I got there. Do you think maybe the carb needs to be rebuilt.
I mean it ran when he started it and it welded but I think I'm gonna start it and let it run a while to maybe try and burn off whatever crap is in that carb I don't know if that will help it though. I checked where the battery is and well there is a lttle rusting there just under the radiator and where the battery sat so I gotta work on that before it gets any worse and I'm sure these things were known for rusting there. If I think of anymore which I'm sure I will I will ask. I gotta go try and get it out the pickup now.
I didn't get in untill dark lastnight to do it. Thanks guys for all the help in the past anwsering alot of my questions. By raftergwelding Date The welding store isn't open today. I mean I don't want a big ass 50 pound can of them? Thanks Chris. I'm dieing to show yall my new toy LOL. By 52lincoln Date By KSellon Date It needs to be big rod Chris. The use on small rod on these engines is what causes carbon up. You will have a fireworks show the first time. I only put in like 4 and a half thats all that it needed well that is what is said on the dipstick.Although the machine is defined as obsolete by Lincoln Electric, there are still many SAs in working order and giving good service.
The name is taken from the abbreviation for "Shield-Arc" plus the fact that the model has a Lincoln model L engine. The Lincoln model L engine is a four-cylinder, four-cycle engine. The displacement, or total volume swept by the pistons, is cubic inches. Brake horsepower is the raw power of an engine before it begins to drive auxiliary components.
The engine rotation is counterclockwise from the welder end. The oil pressure is 20 pounds minimum and 35 pounds maximum, when the engine is running hot. The fuel system is gravity fed and the fuel used must be at least 75 octane.
The welder has dual control, which means you can vary the welding current with two mechanical control knobs. One control varies the open circuit voltage and the current. The second is a four position current control. Using these two controls, you can vary the current from 60 to amps at roughly 40 volts arc voltage. You can therefore vary the arc, the hot electrical discharge from the end of the welding rod, as required for different conditions.
For example, you can use a "tenuous" arc when welding in windy conditions or a "snappy" arc for vertical or overhead work. Some models have a volt DC power plug outlet on the control panel, providing 8. This will give 1 kilowatt of power. You can use this to power lights and various tools. There is an idling device, for short periods when the machine is running but you have temporarily stopped welding. This saves fuel and reduces wear to the engine. Some models have a carburetor de-icer to prevent damage to the carburetor because of icy weather conditions.
Frank Luger had his first educational resources published in the early s. He worked on a major reading system for Cambridge University Press, became an information-technology adviser and authored interactive whiteboard resources for "The Guardian. Share It.From pipeline projects to construction sites, engine driven welders are workhorses in the field that provide unmatched flexibility and power in the hands of well-trained professionals. These versatile two-in-one machines, or three-in-one machines with an air compressor, are designed to perform at the highest levels even in the most rugged environmental conditions — think rain, cold, wind, heat and dust.
With that level of intense, on-demand functionality, engine driven welders require regular care and basic maintenance to keep them operating at optimum levels and avoid costly downtime and repairs. ENGINE By design, an engine driven welder harnesses the mechanical energy created by the engine and converts it to electrical energy that enables the welding function. If an engine loses horsepower, output can be significantly diminished making engine maintenance critical.
Oil filters and air filters should be inspected regularly, and even daily on dusty worksites, because an accumulation of dust particles in the air filter can hinder performance. These filters are easily accessible and visible once the welder engine access door is opened.
Filters are the first place to look if you are experiencing issues with power. The machine should frequently be blown out with compressed air to remove dust and dirt particles from electrical components and engine parts. This should be done at least once every two weeks or more often depending on work conditions.
As one would expect, different types of engines require different types of maintenance. Every engine driven welder should be equipped with a sticker detailing a maintenance schedule that outlines the recommended practices at every, and hours of use.
There is also an initial break-in period for engine driven welders. This break-in period enables the moving parts of the machine to wear against each other to make the necessary final size and shape adjustments. For the first 50 hours the machine is on, it should be engaged in at least a moderate welding load to allow the piston rings to set and make contact with the cylinder wall. The machine should not sit idle or be engaged in light use during this time.
The oil should be checked every five hours, or daily, during the break-in period and topped off if oil loss is present.
Both AC and DC generators require regular troubleshooting of their internal carbon brushes, which are the only electrical connection to the moving parts of the generator. Those brushes ride on the rotor AC and armature DC to make the essential connection to convert the mechanical energy into electrical energy.
Brushes should be checked monthly when blowing out machine to ensure that they are pushed up against the rotor or armature. They should be at least one quarter inch in length. Brushes shorter than that cannot apply necessary pressure and should be replaced. Where these two types of generators differ — in maintenance terms — is caring for internal mechanical pieces.
Engine Driven Welder Maintenance
On an AC generator, the rotor has brass slip rings that inevitably collect dirt that creates a filmy, black glaze. This build up can cause problems so the rings should be regularly cleaned to a nice shiny appearance using a grit emery cloth.
The rings should be checked at least once every two months. A DC generator, however, has an armature that has a commutator and a series of copper bars that also collect grime during the welding process. In this case, rather than an emery cloth which could cause an electrical short in the armature because of its conductivity, you would use a commutator stone to clean the copper pieces.